If you've got a long driveway or a decent amount of property to clear, a 72 utv snow plow is pretty much the gold standard for getting the job done fast. While smaller setups might work for tight sidewalks, once you step up to a full-sized side-by-side, you really want a blade that matches the width and power of your machine. There is something incredibly satisfying about dropping the blade and watching a massive drift just move out of the way while you sit in a heated cab, but picking the right one takes a bit of thought.
Finding the Right Fit for Your Machine
Not every UTV is built to handle a six-foot blade. Before you go out and buy a 72 utv snow plow, you've got to make sure your rig has the guts for it. Most mid-to-large-size UTVs—think of your Rangers, Pioneers, or Defenders—are perfectly capable, but if you're running a smaller, narrow trail machine, a 72-inch blade might actually be wider than your wheelbase by a significant margin.
The big advantage of the 72-inch width is that even when you angle the blade—which you'll be doing most of the time—it still clears a path wider than your tires. If you use a smaller 60-inch blade and angle it, you might find your tires running over the un-plowed snow on the edges, which is a recipe for getting stuck or just doing a sloppy job. A 72-inch setup gives you that extra breathing room so your tires stay on the cleared pavement or gravel.
Steel vs. Poly Blades
Once you've decided on the size, you're usually faced with the "big debate": steel or poly? Both have their fans, and honestly, you can't go wrong with either if you buy a quality brand.
Steel is the classic choice. It's heavy, which helps the blade bite into hard-packed snow or ice. It's also incredibly durable. If you hit a hidden stump or a curb, steel is likely to bend a bit or just take the hit and keep going. The downside? It's loud, it can rust over time if you don't touch up the paint, and snow sometimes likes to stick to it.
Poly (polyethylene) is the modern alternative. It's basically a heavy-duty plastic skin over a steel frame. The biggest perk here is that it's slippery. Snow slides right off it, which means you can move more volume without it "sticking" to the face of the plow. It's also quieter and won't rust. Some people worry about it being too light, but most 72-inch poly plows have enough steel reinforcement that weight isn't really an issue.
Straight Blades vs. V-Plows
For most homeowners, a straight blade is all you'll ever need. It's simple, it's easier to maintain, and it's usually quite a bit cheaper. You can angle it left, right, or keep it centered. It's great for pushing snow off to the side of a long driveway.
However, if you live in an area that gets absolutely buried in deep drifts, you might look at a V-plow. These are essentially two separate blades joined in the middle. You can put them in a "V" shape to bust through deep snow, or a "scoop" shape to move massive amounts of snow forward without it spilling off the sides. They are significantly heavier and more expensive, though. For a 72 utv snow plow, a V-plow is a serious piece of equipment that requires a beefy UTV and usually a more complex hydraulic system to operate.
The Importance of the Mounting System
How the plow attaches to your UTV matters more than most people realize. You generally have two options: front-mount or mid-mount.
Mid-mount systems attach to the underside of the frame, usually near the center of the machine. These are incredibly strong because they distribute the force of the snow across the whole frame. The downside is that they can be a pain to hook up—you're often crawling on the cold ground to line up pins. They also reduce your ground clearance even when the plow is off, as the mounting plate stays under the belly.
Front-mount systems attach to the front bumper or frame area. These are much easier to click on and off. Since the pivot point is further forward, you can often lift the blade higher, which is great for stacking snow into tall piles. Modern front-mount kits have gotten much stronger, and for most residential use, they're the way to go because of the convenience factor.
Winch Lift vs. Hydraulic Lift
How are you going to get that blade off the ground? Most people use their UTV's winch. It's simple and cost-effective. You just hook the winch cable to the plow frame, and you're good to go. The only real issue is that winches aren't exactly built for the constant "up-down-up-down" of plowing, so you might go through winch ropes or cables a bit faster. Many people swap their steel cable for a short "plow strap" made of synthetic webbing to prevent snapping.
If you want to get fancy, you can go with a full hydraulic lift and turn system. This allows you to raise, lower, and angle the blade all from a joystick inside the cab. It's faster, smoother, and saves a lot of wear on your winch. It's also a lot more expensive and requires more wiring. If you're plowing for hours at a time, hydraulics are worth every penny. If you're just doing your own driveway once a week, a winch is perfectly fine.
Wear Bars and Skid Shoes
Let's talk about the parts of the plow that actually touch the ground. The wear bar is that strip of metal at the very bottom of the blade. It's designed to be replaced. If you're plowing a lot of concrete or asphalt, you're going to grind that bar down eventually. It's a lot cheaper to replace a wear bar than a whole plow blade, so keep an eye on it.
Skid shoes are those little mushroom-shaped feet on the back of the plow. They control how close the blade gets to the ground. If you're plowing a gravel driveway, you'll want to lower the skid shoes so the blade "floats" an inch or so off the ground. This prevents you from pushing all your expensive gravel into the yard. If you're on a smooth paved surface, you can raise them up so the blade scrapes clean.
Tips for Better Plowing
When you're out there with your 72 utv snow plow, there's a bit of a learning curve. First off, don't wait for the storm to end if it's a big one. It's much easier to plow four inches of snow twice than it is to plow eight inches once. UTVs are tough, but they aren't tanks; pushing too much heavy, wet snow can put a lot of strain on your belt and transmission.
Always try to "plan your piles." Remember that winter is long. If you dump all your snow right at the edge of the driveway during the first storm, you won't have anywhere to put the snow when the next one hits. Use the power of the UTV to push the snow back further than you think you need to.
Also, be careful with your speed. It's tempting to go fast because it throws the snow further, but hitting a hidden manhole cover or a frozen rock at 10 mph can do serious damage to your plow's trip springs or even your UTV's frame. Most plows have "trip springs" that let the blade fold forward if you hit something, but they can only do so much.
Keeping Your Equipment in Shape
Maintenance isn't the most exciting topic, but it'll save you a headache in the middle of a blizzard. Before the season starts, check all your bolts. Plowing involves a lot of vibration, and things like to wiggle loose. Grease any pivot points on the plow frame so everything moves smoothly.
If you're using a winch, check the cable for frays. There is nothing worse than having your winch line snap when you're halfway through a job and the blade is stuck on the ground. Also, if you're using a steel blade, hit any scratches with a bit of spray paint to prevent rust from taking hold.
At the end of the day, a 72 utv snow plow is an investment in your time and your back. It turns a miserable chore into something that's actually kind of fun. There's a certain pride in having the cleanest driveway in the neighborhood without ever having to pick up a shovel. Just take care of the equipment, drive smart, and you'll be set for years of winters.